Specimens of Monstera siltepecana have been found in Mexico, Belize, Colombia, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Panama.
The young plant has juvenile leaves without perforations. Holes appear in the process of growing up monstera. Monstera siltepecana is a squeezing epiphyte, i.e. it closely “hugs” the host tree, and the vine grows up the tree. The color of the juvenile leaves of Monstera siltepecana plant has a gray-bluish color, when they mature they turn dark green, but remain the same semi-gloss as when they are young.
Monstera care at home
Caring for the plant will not cause any difficulties even for beginners. Useful tips that we will now offer you will help you to take care of the Monstera yourself and keep it in a healthy and attractive form all year round.
How do you care for Monstera Siltepecana?
Monstera siltepecana prefers moderation in everything. It does not grow well in heavily shaded areas, but a direct sunny place will not last long. Prefers bright but diffused light and partial shade. The best place for a pot with a plant is on a stand next to the east or west windows. In the southern directions, the monstera should be set back from the window to the back of the room or shaded, especially at noon.
The leaves can get burned, become pale, become covered with yellow spots, and lose their attractiveness. The north windows may not have enough natural light. You will notice this in the leaves – they will become smaller and smaller and without openwork cuts, so characteristic of Monstera siltepecana plant.
Move the Monstera siltepecana plant to a more illuminated place or purchase a phytolamp or a daylight lamp to organize additional lighting for the vine.
Monstera siltepecana care
Monstera siltepecana location
Keep in mind that does not like to be moved from place to place. Immediately think about where it is best to grow. If you put the pot directly in front of the windows, you will soon stop seeing anything behind the window glass. The leaves will unfold so that they will cover most of the window, and the room will no longer receive sunlight.
It is better if you put a pot with a vine at a distance of one and a half meters from the window near the wall on some table, and behind it on the wall organize additional, preferably fluorescent, lighting, which, if necessary, you will turn on.
Monstera siltepecana plant takes up a lot of space For an adult plant, for sure, you will need support or fasteners to the wall. In nature, the liana finds its own support.
It weaves around the trunks of trees, climbing them with the help of aerial roots higher to the sun. At home, you yourself must take care of the support for a powerful pet. Otherwise, under the weight of its shoots and leaves, it will bend and break.
Without support, you will not be able to grow a harmonious and healthy plant. Usually, a Monstera up to half a meter in height can safely do without support, but as soon as you notice that the stem of the plant has begun to deviate from the vertical-it’s time to put support.
Monstera siltepecana shops sell sticks wrapped in coconut fiber. In the first pairs, they are suitable for young Monstera, but for adult specimens, the fiber layer is too thin and will not allow the aerial roots of the liana to grow into the support. Often, a tropical guest is allowed to lean on pieces of furniture in the room, arrange for her to mount directly on the wall (a wooden lattice or a strong string on which she weaves). But then it becomes more difficult to take care of the plant, and you can forget about transplants.
Temperature Monstera siltepecana
For the successful cultivation of Monstera siltepecana, a moderately hot temperature is suitable. At 20-25 °C, the plant will grow quickly and look wonderful. At a low temperature, the growth will slow down, and at 15 °C, the flower will stop growing altogether.
Do not tolerate Monstera siltepecana drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations – window frames must be sealed. In winter, it is necessary to protect the plant from the hot air of heating devices. And the temperature in winter is desirable to maintain within 18-20 °C, since at a higher temperature it quickly grows. In the summer, when the temperature rises above 26 °C, you should spray the vine and the surrounding air with clean water. To maintain a constant comfortable temperature in the room, you can use a split system, just make sure that the airflow is not directed at the plant.
Monstera siltepecana Bathing
Large carved Monstera siltepecana leaves must be kept clean. Wipe them regularly with a damp cloth or a dust sponge. This should be done for several reasons: dust closes the pores on the leaves and disrupts the gas exchange of the plant with the environment; dust forms a film on the surface of the leaves, which slows down the processes of photosynthesis; the dust can accumulate substances harmful to the plant; the dust can hide the traces of insect pests. In addition, if you spray the dusty leaves, it will really look like a spotted monster. So wipe the Monstera siltepecana leaves regularly, preferably in the morning. For more beauty, you can give the foliage a gloss.
In specialized stores, there are various tools for polishing houseplants. Take it better in an aerosol package. But you can also polish with folk remedies. To do this, use beer, a weak solution of vinegar, or add a little milk to the water to wash the leaves.
Do not touch the young leaves, and the adult leaves boldly, but carefully, without pressure, polish with a cloth with the product of your choice. Liana will shine with beauty and health.
Watering and humidity
Monstera siltepecana likes abundant watering from spring to autumn, in winter – moderate. It is unacceptable to over-dry the earthen lump. The monstera plants also does not like overflow and stagnation of water in the tray – the root system can rot. Pour the water with warm water.
For Monstera siltepecana, it is desirable to keep the humidity in the room above average – this guest is of tropical origin. But moderate humidity in the room, at least 60%, will suit her. Only, the hotter the air in the room, the more often you need to carry out water treatments for liana.
Soil and pot
The soil for indoor Monstera siltepecana should be sufficiently loose, well-retaining moisture, nutritious. The acidity of the soil should be neutral. The composition of the soil should be approximate as follows: 3 hours of turf land, 1 hour of leaf land, peat, humus, and sand. You can buy ready-made mixtures for decorative deciduous (Aroid) houseplants, where a little perlite or coconut fiber is added.
Choose a pot about the same height and width. For a young plant, the pot should be medium. For a more adult silver monstera plant, the pot is chosen wider, since, from each node of the plant, air roots will grow and go into the soil. Place a layer of 2 – 3 cm of drainage material on the bottom. It can be expanded clay, gravel, perlite, foam chips.
From March to September, Monstera siltepecana can be fed with a complex mineral fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants every 2 to 3 weeks. It is better to reduce the dosage by 2 times, relative to what is indicated in the instructions – if the liana is actively developing, you should not overfeed the plant unnecessarily.
Adult silver monstera plants can be added to the top layer of the soil once a summer with hummus or watered with mullein infusion. If you can’t stand the smell of these fertilizers, limit yourself to ready-made top dressing. In winter, it is not necessary to feed the plant.
Monstera siltepecana transplant
For the first four years, young Monsters need to be transplanted annually into a new pot, 1 to 2 in larger than the previous one. After five years, an adult liana is transplanted less often, once every 3 to 4 years, but it is necessary to replace the top layer of soil in those years when the transplant is not performed. Transplant a young plant like this. You need to transplant the silver monstera by the way of transshipment of the plant. Remove the flower from the old pot with an earthen lump, taking care not to scatter it. Inspect the roots, remove the damaged ones. Place the earthen lump in a new pot of a larger size in the center. Place support nearby. Pour the new soil carefully, lightly tamping it. Pour the vine, spray. Then take it to a permanent place. Adult flowering plants are more difficult to transplant. The older the vine, the more land it needs.
The pot has to be taken to grow-about one and a half to two buckets. It can be 2-4 in larger than the previous one. It is better to use ceramic pots – they are heavier and more stable, in them, a powerful plant will not turn over. The width of the pot should be sufficient for the aerial roots of the Monstera to reach the soil.
Do not forget to install strong support for the vine immediately. Make sure to make a transfer with an assistant – you can’t do it alone. Before transplanting, water the plant so that the soil is completely wet – then the roots will acquire elasticity.
Try to separate the soil in the pot from the walls with a knife or spatula. If roots stick out of the drainage holes, cut them off. Now the most difficult thing is to get a huge plant out of the pot. You may have to climb on a chair and drag the silver monstera, holding on to its thick stem, and your assistant will remove the pot from the bottom of the plant. The new pot, drainage, and soil must be prepared in advance. Transfer the removed plant to a new pot, place it in the center and cover it with the new nutrient soil so that there are no voids left in the pot.
Don’t forget to install the support. Water the soil. If the ground settles, add it. But not to the very top-otherwise, it will be difficult to change the top layer every year, and when watering, the water will overflow over the edges.
Each time, it will become more difficult to transplant the Monster. Over time, you will only change the top layer of earth in the pot and add humus and other nutrients to it. Monstera siltepecana care in winter Monstera does not have a pronounced rest period. It doesn’t shed its leaves.
Only when the duration of daylight decreases and the temperature drops below 20 g. stops its growth. Monstera deliciosa is able to spend the winter period at a temperature of 16-18 °C with poor watering and the absence of any fertilizing. It would be good to give the plant such a respite for at least a month. As the temperature increases and the daylight increases, even with the help of artificial lighting, the Monstera will come to life again and begin to grow actively.
Pruning Monstera siltepecana
The overgrown aerial roots of the liana do not always have a decorative appearance, they want to be cut off. But this should not be done – they serve to nourish and moisturize the plant. When spraying a vine, be sure to spray its air roots as well. Sometimes they are simply masked, gathered in bunches, wrapped with moss or tied to the stem.
Sometimes the roots themselves cling to the supports and grow into them. Over time, the adult liana reduces the rate of its development. To rejuvenate it and stimulate further development, in early spring, when the plant has not yet started to grow, cut off the top of the Monstera with two or three internodes, treat the cut with crushed activated carbon. They are waiting for the awakening of the lateral kidneys. And the top is used for breeding Monstera by rooting it.
Flower arrangements featuring Monstera siltepecana
Monstera gets along well with other creepers. In the same pot with it, Philodendron and Scindapsus can grow – you will get an original ensemble. The conditions of their detention are similar. Next to the beautiful Monstera, such popular decorative deciduous plants as ficus Benjamin, palm-shaped
Dracaena Marginata or yucca with long leaves look good. Chlorophytum, a money tree, or a blooming Decembrist next to Monstera will also be a good decoration for your interior.
Monstera siltepecana Breeding
There are several ways to breed a tropical beauty.
The seed method is rarely used. At home, Monstera plants very rarely blooms, and it is impossible to get their seeds. If you still have the seeds of a tropical liana, then sow them in a container with a mixture of sand and peat in equal parts, germinate under the film in a warm, bright place at a temperature of 20-25 °C.
Ventilate the greenhouse, if necessary, moisten the substrate. Shoots will appear in three or four weeks. The seedlings initially appear not dissected, juvenile leaves, only in the fifth or eighth month will grow real adult leaves.
After their appearance-conduct pickling of seedlings. A well-developed root system in plants grown from seeds is formed only after two years. At this age, they will have 3 to 5 juvenile leaves and 2 to 4 adults. Now you can transplant young Monsters into suitable pots and put them in a permanent place.
Using side shoots
Reproduction of Monstera with the help of side shoots is the easiest and most reliable way. It is used all spring to summer. At the base of the plant stem, side shoots grow. They are carefully separated, the slices are dried and powdered with crushed activated carbon or charcoal.
The shoot prepared in this way is planted in a pot with a drainage layer at the bottom and suitable soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and put it in a bright, warm place for rooting. If necessary, the substrate is moistened, and the greenhouse is ventilated. You will learn about successful rooting thanks to the appearance of new shoots on the shoots.
Propagation by cuttings
You can propagate Monstera with cuttings with aerial roots. This method is used when the trunk of the vine is bald, and has lost its attractiveness.
It’s time for the monster to rejuvenate and get new plants at the same time. To do this, choose a process with aerial roots and at least one mature leaf. Without cutting off the shoot, lower the aerial roots of the plant into a container with water to obtain normal small roots.
When there is a sufficient root washcloth to separate from the mother plants healthy, the upper part of the stem below the roots is cut off and planted in a pot prepared for the young Monstera, while sinking all the roots into the soil entirely. Sometimes a new bush is planted in an old pot so that its leaves cover the bare trunk of the mother plant.
Another method monstera siltepecana care: an apical stalk with several leaves and an eye-bud is cut from the mother plant and put to take root in a container with wet sand or a mixture of sand and peat, under the film. After about a month, when the roots grow back, the cuttings are transplanted into pots with soil and take care of them according to all the rules.
At the same time, the mother plant continues to grow further. New shoots grow from dormant buds. You can cut the cuttings from the middle of the shoot. The uppercut is made 2 cm above the kidney, straight, and the lower one is oblique. Lightly dry the slices and powder them with crushed charcoal. After that, the cuttings are planted in a substrate of peat and sand in equal parts.
To maintain a constant humidity, cover the container with a transparent bag. Ventilate, if necessary-spray the substrate and the stalk. When planting, make sure that the node from which the air roots appear is half-submerged in the soil.
We do not recommend rooting cuttings in water, since the roots that grow in it will take a long time to adapt to the ground, for some time they will not be able to choose useful substances and moisture from it. Until new roots grow, the plant will be sick.
Diseases and pests Monstera siltepecana
With proper care, Monstera siltepecana is not affected by insect pests and rarely gets sick. But, sometimes there are still such sucking insects on the vine, such as scabies, spider mites, mealybugs and thrips. When the plant is affected by the scabbard, it looks depressed, beautiful leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. On the sticky secretions of insects, a black coating appears – this is a soot fungus developing.
If you find the parasite at the very beginning, you can remove it mechanically with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol or in a soap solution. If the flower is massively affected by pests, it will have to be sprayed with insecticides, such as Actara, Biotlin and others. If the leaves began to turn yellow, and a spider web appeared on their reverse side – the Monster was attacked by a spider mite. It means that the room is too dry and hot.
It is necessary to correct the situation – to increase the humidity, to spray the plant and the surrounding air more often. And with a spider mite, you need to start fighting. Wash the plant in the bathroom, if possible. The water will wash away most of the pests. Treat the Monstera with acaricides-Phytoverm, Acarin, or Actellic. Read the instructions. Repeat the processing as many times as specified in it and at the desired interval. Otherwise, you will not be able to cope with the tick.
Root rot can be distinguished from diseases. There is a problem due to excessive or improper watering of the plant. Perhaps you have too large a pot, the soil in which does not dry out and sours.
The root system suffers from a lack of oxygen and begins to rot.
Most often this happens in the autumn-winter period at a reduced room temperature.
The plant loses its elasticity, the leaves drop, turn yellow and fall off. To save it, remove the flower from the pot, free the root system from the soil, inspect the roots.
If they are rotten or damaged, remove them.
Treat the cut areas with a solution of manganese, sprinkle them with crushed coal and plant the Monstera in another smaller pot with a large drainage layer.
With insufficient nutrition, the leaves of the Monstera siltepecana will fade, turn yellow and wither.
Feed the flower with fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants, but in slightly smaller doses than indicated in the instructions.
If the Monstera began to cry, i.e. water droplets began to flow from the leaves, perhaps the soil in the pot is too wet.
Thus, the plant gets rid of excess moisture.
This process is also characteristic of other plants from the tropics, it is called guttation. Keep this in mind and water the next time only when the soil in the pot dries out half the volume.
If only the lower leaves have started to turn yellow, and the new ones have become darker and smaller – it means that you are not watering the plant enough. It lacks moisture.
If the Monstera has stopped growing, its leaves have become whole and small-it means that it does not have enough light.
Perhaps you blocked her light with other flowers or put the pot in the far corner.
To re-appear dissected large leaves, the flower should be placed in a brighter place or arrange for it to be artificially illuminated.
With age, the leaves on the Monstera siltepecana begin to fall off-this is natural. If the plant is young, and the leaves are brown and dried – the reason may be too dry and hot air in the room.
If the aerial roots of the Monstera have become thin and soft, then the plant lacks moisture.
Adjust the frequency and amount of watering, wrap the air roots with moist moss, and increase the humidity in the room.
If the leaves of a flower first turn light green, then turn yellow, become colorless, and finally transparent, there may be two reasons: an overabundance of light or, much worse, the disease chlorosis.
Chlorosis is treated with the drug “iron chelate”, which is sold in stores.
The energy of the home plant monstera siltepecana
Even the name reflects the fear that these creepers inspire a person with their huge leaves and fancifully intertwining aerial roots: after all, “monstera” comes from the word “monster”! This plant is a real “energy leech”: it willingly takes energy from a person, but … first of all – negative! If you are sick, irritated, you are overwhelmed with unkind feelings, – sit for half an hour next to the monster, she will make you a healing “bloodletting”.
It helps to organize the flow of thought. It should not be grown for weak personalities and in the nursery. It is useful to place a flower pot near electrical appliances. Monstera will feed on their negative energy. She is suitable for Virgos.
The energy of the monstera is so strong that it is believed that this plant creates order in thoughts and things. Prevents chaotic mixing of different aspects of life. Keeps you from excessive talkativeness, eloquence. Teaches you to find the right words for different interlocutors and circumstances. He fights against excessive conservatism, stubbornness, expands his worldview. Develops flexibility of thinking, the ability to adapt to a changing environment.
With good care of flowers, monstera is able to organize and systematize the thoughts of its owner, put everything on the shelves. For those who have an eternal mess in the house, it is simply irreplaceable. A good monstera is also for those who are constantly obsessed with unrealizable ideas, grabbing for the work that is beyond their power. In addition, monstera protects people from poisoning.
Monstera has about 50 species. Let’s consider the most popular ones.
Liana up to 8 m high. The leaves are 5-7 inches long and 4-14 inches wide. Their shape is ovoid, they are evenly covered with holes. During flowering, an ear is formed, wrapped in a milky-yellow floral “cover”.
It is fair to say that it rarely blooms when grown at home.
Liana is originally from Mexico. It has heart-shaped plates with incisions along the edges. The color of the leaves is deep dark green. The plates are medium-sized – about 30 cm in diameter, have a long thin stalk.
Punched or leaky monstera
Liana, characterized by large leaves up to 1 m in length. They are completely covered with “holes” of various shapes and sizes. When inflorescence forms an ear up to 3 inches high, surrounded by a lush white blanket.
It has heart-shaped plates, pinnately dissected, bright green color. The vine reaches a height of 3 m when grown indoors and 10-12 m when cultivated in a greenhouse. This vine got its name due to its ability to bear fruit. After flowering, a soft berry is formed with a pineapple flavor. At home, the fruit ripens in an average of 10 months. It is interesting that this particular variety can be seen more often than others in apartments and offices. However, few people manage to harvest from it.
Uneven (sickle) monstera
The climbing liana is native to the humid tropics of Brazil. The name indicates the peculiarity of the leaf plates – one half of the leaf is slightly larger than the other in size. They are attached to the “trunk” by means of a short stem. They have a light green color and are covered with large oblong holes, the edges are solid. When flowering, forms a small (2-3 inches tall) cob.
It reaches a height of 3 m. Young vines have whole leaves, as the plant grows up, the leaves are dissected, perforations are formed on them.
It got its name from the shape of the leaves – they are pointed at the ends. The leaf plates are dark green, solid. Holes and cuts appear as the plant grows. Variegated (variegated variety) monsters are especially fond of florists. They look especially original in the interior. These include the already mentioned Borziga, as well as Alba (characterized by slower growth rates, but also by a more capricious character), marble monstera (has a green-yellow leaf color).
Another rare variety of variegated monstera is dubious.
The young plant has solid green plates with a silvery edging along the edges. As the plant matures, the leaves turn green and become perforated. A feature of the dubious monstera is its small size, it can be grown without props like an ampelous vine. A miniature thin monster can also be attributed to ampelous. The young plant has tender, heart-shaped leaves. In an older plant, they are pinnately dissected.